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You are here: Member Contributions > Getting Started
 
Getting Started
Posted by VintageLure on September 2, 2008 @ 10:29 am
 

Hi fellow anglers! Just learned about this site and joined a few minutes ago, so I am about as green as the get! (For now!)

I am a big fan of the old Bomber, Lucky 13, and jointed Creek Chub crank baits (before they were even called crank baits!). I am purchased some from eBay, but the supply is sporadic and I have very little selection. Therefore, I am ready to take the plunge into making them myself.

I know the learning experience will take months to get the right equipment and learn how to use it to turn out quality lures. I wanted to ask some of the experienced crankbait makers here to suggest any links within this site that may help get me started.

Also, I am interested to learn if there are any good wood lathe duplicators that I could duplicate the old Bombers, Lucky 13's, and jointed Creek Chubs, using some of my old favorites as models. I would assume it would have to be a very high speed and precise lathe that is made for working with small pieces of wood. So...

1) What are some of the best choices for lathe duplicators?

2)  I am interested to see if there are any suppliers of components for these vintage lures. The old Bombers have a metal lip, in different sizes, for example. Can these be purchased or will I have to make these also?

3) What are some good spray paint kits that I should begin researching for getting a professional finish to my lures? Are there templates that I could use to get the same paint design each time?

I am curious to see if there are any others out there who make the old Bombers. If any one has answers to the questions above it will certainly help me get started.

Thank you all!

Don

 


Comments / Questions About this Contribution
Posted by TackleMaking on September 27, 2008 @ 10:51 am

Hi Don...welcome! Sorry it's taken so long to respond...my "day job" has been busy lately! :)

I actually don't have much experience with lathe duplicators, but looking around online, it sounds like Vega makes some good ones at a good price. For the lures you described, you could probably get away with buying the smaller versions in the $300 range.

There are many suppliers who carry the metal lips...but unfortunately not all of them are exact matches for the lures you described. If you're okay with getting a lip that is "close" than you might try Stamina Inc and LureMaking.com (see Helpful Links section for their websites). If you want an exact match, you might actually be able to contact the manufacturers (Bagleybait.com, etc.) and ask them if they'll sell the lips to you wholesale. You'd be surprised...many of them will.

The trick to getting a good paint job on the lure is actually to get an Airbrush and a compressor. While spray paint from a can is okay, you'll be limited because you can't really control the pressure of the flow...and you can't usually find "semi-transparent" paints in a can. To get the really good paint jobs, you'll want paints that are semitransparent so the lower layers of color combine with the outer layers. That will give you the best colors.

To seal the baits, you could start with Flex Coat Rod Coat. Simply mix it up following the instructions, and then paint it on your lure after your done painting. While the coat is still wet, run it about 3 inches above a flame to heat it and get the bubbles out.

Good luck...let us know how you make out!

Posted by Ted on January 28, 2009 @ 10:06 am

Hey Don, I read your post on "how to begin". I use a wood lathe that my grandfather made using an old Model-T water pump housing for the head unit. (I have modified it for modern uses). But as for a duplicator, I feel that trial and error are the best way to go. You're only going to get better in the long run. As for paints, I use plasti-kote xylene based paints. They're fast drying, can be thinned very easily for shadow scaling and are compatible with most of your quick drying clear coatings. I use Champion brand clear spray, which I pick up at the Family Dollar store for about $2.75 a can. Minimum of 3 coats is what I use. It's critical to use the same type of paint with the same type of clear coat so the paint on the lure doesn't wrinkle and peel.(I've had to scrape and refinish a few lures myself when I first got started over twenty years ago.) I remember when I first started I thought I could use water-based model paints because they were so easy to use and keep the air brush clean. Big mistake. When I went to put the clear coat on (thought I'ld try Minwax Helmsman Spray) I ended up scraping the whole lure down and starting over. Actually about twenty lures to be exact. Hope this helps a fellow lure maker.

Posted by propbait on March 1, 2009 @ 7:16 am

welcom to our heritage, the good ole topwater, instead of expensive lathes try a belt sander get some dowels the size you want and sand them to form. it does not take but a 1/2 hour not months.

propbait


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